Program // Professional Competitions

COMPETITIONS’ DESCRIPTION
SCHEDULE AND RULES

Found in 1991 by Gilles Brousseau and François-Guy Thivièrge, the Ile aux Raisins (means “Grape Island”) site in Pont-Rouge represents a mixed climbing gem in North America. Since 1997, the Festiglace is proud to welcome the best ice climbers around the world to team up with the strongest Quebecers. What makes Pont-Rouge such a coveted winter crag are the routes majorly overhanging aspect as well as the exceptional quantity of daggers. Even though the rock is quite fractured, it’s also this feature that leads the water through to become those sought-after frozen drips.

Pont-Rouge hosts 55 routes of all levels: WI2 to WI6+, from 10m to 40m. Each year, ice formations are different and create new mixed climbing lines. A little over 20 routes are selected and pre equipped for the Enduro competition, which is literally in the heart of Festiglace. This competition formula is unique in the world but so much esteemed by climbers. Don’t miss the party after the conferences! We expressly start later on sunday to accomodate a little more sleep! We hope all our efforts will lead you to a memorable competition and Festival. Have a n’ICE Festiglace!

WEDNESDAY february 15th

Unveiling of teams

Although randomly drawn at first, Festiglace’s team will make sure athletes’ nationalities are mixed.

Teams will be unveiled by email and on Festiglace.org website.

FRIDAY february 17th

Pre competition meeting / choice of start up routes

First half of drawn teams of 2 will start from the south side of the river.

Second half will start on the north side of the river.

The first drawn team has the first choice for their start route but the last choice on the other side in the afternoon. 

Choices will be made friday just before conferences start.

If absent, the climber will have the last choice.

SATURDAY february 18th

ENDURO COMPETITION

8h00 – 16h00

Description

In teams of 2 randomly drawned (but individual ranking), each climber leads as many routes as he can in 2 blocks of 1h30 (1 block per river side) for a total of 3h of climbing per competitor. Points for each route are determined according to their lenght and difficulty. More than 20 routes are preequiped with quickdraws. Climbers decide which route they go up.

Example

Team #1, composed of climber A and climber B

7h30- 8h00: Climbers’ arrival

8h00- 9h30:
Climber A in action north side of river, climber B belays

9h30- 10h00: Transition

10h00- 11h30:
Climber B in action north side of river, climber A belays

11h30- 12h30:
Lunch and riverside switch

12h30- 14h:00:
Climber A in action south side of river, climber B belays

14h00- 14h30: Transition

14h30- 16h00:
Climber B in action south side of river, climber A belays

16h00: End of competition

Rules

RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE.

The competition is judged.

To complete a route, one must lead climb from bottom to top (belay clip) without falling nor skipping draws. No takes. You can’t progress with the help of the anchors as well but just the rock and ice.

If one falls, he can pull the rope all the way out of the draws and start over IF there’s no climber waiting for the route.

A climber can’t ascend a route more than once.

No points are allowed if a climber has not fully completed a route when the 1h30 period is over.

To help the route setters team, we ask the last climber of the day to remove the quickdraws and ice screws of the route they’re on. Only the v-threads’ cordelettes and belays will remain in place. 

The official knot to tie a climber is a double figure eight knot. 

If a climber arrives late, he becomes the first to go.

A minimum of 4 ice screws must be normally spaced on an ice route. It’s not allowed to place a screw from the ground.

At the start signal, each climber must have both feet on the ground

Only competitors, judges, volunteers and photographers are allowed in the competition zones.

Please respect all Festiglace staff.

Minimum mandatory equipment

UIAA approved harness 

UIAA approved helmet

Crampons with a max of 5cm of front point. Fruit boots are cool. No spurs

2 ice axes without leashes, 50cm X 25cm. No leashes, (spring leashes are authorized for certain areas over the water).

Gloves (must not be fingerless). 

A set of 14 UIAA approved quickdraws. (20-60cm)

A set of 10 UIAA approved ice screws, all sizes.

Stick Clip (if you are flying in, do not worry about it)

Dynamic rope 70m, 9,4mm min

SUNDAY february 19th

DIFFICULTY FINALS

10h00 – 13h00

10 best climbers of Enduro rank for the finals’ route.

The competition is juged and filmed.

The difficulty will be between M9 and M11.

If more than 1 climber reaches the top, the best time will determine the winner.

1 try only

If you don’t take place in the finals, you can try the route AFTER the comp.

Minimum mandatory equipment

UIAA approved harness 

UIAA approved helmet

Crampons with a max of 5cm of front point. Fruit boots are cool. No spurs

2 ice axes without leashes, 50cm X 25cm. No leashes, (spring leashes are authorized for certain areas over the water).

Gloves (must not be fingerless).

Speed competition

13h30 – 14h30

Competition is juged, timed and filmed.

Side-by-side, 2 climbers start up at the same time.

Once the route is completed, climbers exchange their routes and climb again.

The best combined time determine the winner who advance through the next round. 

2 pairs of speed ice axes will be available for those who don’t own any.

If one falls, he can continue from this point.

Minimum mandatory equipment

UIAA approved harness 

UIAA approved helmet

Crampons with a max of 5cm of front point. Fruit boots are cool. No spurs

2 ice axes without leashes, 50cm X 25cm. No leashes, (spring leashes are authorized for certain areas over the water).

Gloves (must not be fingerless).