Program // Professional Competitions

    COMPETITIONS’ DESCRIPTION
    SCHEDULE AND RULES

    Found in 1991 by Gilles Brousseau and François-Guy Thivièrge, the Ile aux Raisins (means “Grape Island”) site in Pont-Rouge represents a mixed climbing gem in North America. Since 1997, the Festiglace is proud to welcome the best ice climbers around the world to team up with the strongest Quebecers. What makes Pont-Rouge such a coveted winter crag are the routes majorly overhanging aspect as well as the exceptional quantity of daggers. Even though the rock is quite fractured, it’s also this feature that leads the water through to become those sought-after frozen drips.

    Pont-Rouge hosts 55 routes of all levels: WI2 to WI6+, from 10m to 40m. Each year, ice formations are different and create new mixed climbing lines. Just over 20 routes are selected for the event at the heart of Festiglace: the Enduro competition. This competition formula is unique in the world but so much esteemed by climbers. Don’t miss the party after the conferences! We expressly start later on sunday to accomodate a little more sleep! We hope all our efforts will lead you to a memorable competition and Festival. Have a n’ICE Festiglace!

    WEDNESDAY february 19

    Unveiling of teams

    Although randomly drawn at first, Festiglace’s team will make sure athletes’ nationalities are mixed.

    Teams will be unveiled by email and on Festiglace.org website.

    FRIDAY february 21

    Pre competition meeting / choice of start up routes

    4:30pm // Marcel Bédard Conference Room

    Handover of the competitor’s kit, including race number.

    First half of drawn teams of 2 will start from the north side (south face) of the river.

    Second half will start on the south side (north face) of the river.

    The first drawn team has the first choice for their start route but the last choice on the other side in the afternoon. 

    Choices will be made friday just before conferences start.

    If absent, the climber will have the last choice.

    SATURDAY february 22

    ENDURO COMPETITION

    8h00 – 16h00

    Description

    In teams of 2 randomly drawned (but individual ranking), each climber leads as many routes as he can in 2 blocks of 1h30 (1 block per river side) for a total of 3h of climbing per competitor. Points for each route are determined according to their lenght and difficulty. More than 20 routes are preequiped with quickdraws. Climbers decide which route they go up.

    Example

    Team #1, composed of climber A and climber B

    7h30- 8h00: Climbers’ arrival

    8h00- 9h30:
    Climber A in action north side of river, climber B belays

    9h30- 10h00: Transition

    10h00- 11h30:
    Climber B in action north side of river, climber A belays

    11h30- 12h30:
    Lunch and riverside switch

    12h30- 14h:00:
    Climber A in action south side of river, climber B belays

    14h00- 14h30: Transition

    14h30- 16h00:
    Climber B in action south side of river, climber A belays

    16h00: End of competition

    Rules

    RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE.

    The competition is judged.

    To complete a route, one must lead climb from bottom to top (belay clip) without falling nor skipping draws. No takes. You can’t progress with the help of the anchors as well but just the rock and ice.

    If one falls, he can pull the rope all the way out of the draws and start over IF there’s no climber waiting for the route.

    A climber can’t ascend a route more than once.

    If a climber is climbing and has not completed the route by the end of the period, no points will be awarded for this last ascent.

    To help the route setters team, we ask the last climber of the day to remove the quickdraws and ice screws of the route they’re on. Only the v-threads’ cordelettes and belays will remain in place. 

    The official knot to tie a climber is a double figure eight knot. 

    If a climber arrives late, he becomes the first to go.

    All rock and ice anchors are pre-installed.

    At the start signal, each climber must have both feet on the ground

    Only competitors, judges, volunteers and photographers are allowed in the competition zones.

    Please respect all Festiglace staff.

    Minimum mandatory equipment

    UIAA approved harness 

    UIAA approved helmet

    Crampons with a max of 5cm of front point. Fruit boots are cool. No spurs

    2 ice axes without leashes, 50cm X 25cm. No leashes, (spring leashes are authorized for certain areas over the water).

    Gloves (must not be fingerless). 

    Stick Clip (if you are flying in, do not worry about it)

    Dynamic rope 70m, 9,4mm min

    SUNDAY february 23

    DIFFICULTY

    10h00 – 15h00

    All climbers who have taken part in the Enduro may take part in the difficulty event on Sunday. If a competitor does not wish to take part in the event, he/she must inform a judge.

    The competition is juged and filmed.

    The difficulty will be between M9 and M11.

    If more than 1 climber reaches the top, the best time will determine the winner.

    A time limit for climbing the difficulty route will be communicated to competitors on the morning of the event.

    1 try only

    Minimum mandatory equipment

    UIAA approved harness 

    UIAA approved helmet

    Crampons with a max of 5cm of front point. Fruit boots are cool. No spurs

    2 ice axes without leashes, 50cm X 25cm. No leashes, (spring leashes are authorized for certain areas over the water).

    Gloves (must not be fingerless).